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10 Simple Steps to Recording an Awesome Drum Sound

A great drum sound is the core of a great mix. If the drums sound fantastic, you’re off to a great start. If the drums aren’t working, nothing will sound as good as it should.

This is the first of several posts I have planned on drums, and I’m starting at the beginning – how to mic up a drum kit.

Obviously there’s no one right answer to this, it depends on the kit, the room, the player and the material. But I’m going to suggest ten techniques that in my experience will help you record the best drum sound you can.

You might want to check out my post 10 Rules For Achieving Outstanding Music Mixes, too – taking special note of points 2 and 4:

Before starting recording you need a decent kit, and a decent space to record it in.

Otherwise you’ll be fighting an uphill battle from the outset.

There are basically two ways to record drums – using the overheads for an overall sound and supporting it with close mics, or building the kit up from individual close mics and using the overheads mainly for cymbals. Personally, I use as few mics as possible whenever I can. Especially for an open, live sound, you can sometimes get a great result even using just kick, snare and overheads.

So, without further ado:

  1. Start with the overheads Put up a stereo pair and see how the kit sounds. Are you getting a good, balanced result ? If so, use it ! This only works with decent players – if someone isn’t hitting the toms hard enough, or is overdoing the cymbals, you’ll have to get more surgical. Decide early on if you want to use the overall sound of the kit from the overheads, or if you need to get more separation.
  2. “Overheads” don’t need to be overhead If you like the overall sound of the kit, but it just sounds a little unbalanced, don’t be afraid to move the overhead mics. If you plan to filter out all the bass and build up the rest of the kit drum by drum, then fine – put them right over the cymbals. But don’t just set it and forget it – experiment with the overheads in front of the kit, parallel with the toms, and even behind the player pointing at the drum skins. Listen, and put them where they sound right.
  3. Tape cheap PZMs to the wall One step further from the last point – if the drums sound good in the room, try using PZM (pressure-zone mics) taped to the wall in front of the kit, to capture just that quality. PZMs are (often very inexpensive) mics which can give excellent, spacious results on all kinds of instruments. Even if you just blend in a little to add a live feel to a close-miced kit, this can be a great technique.
  4. Mic close and steep There are several schools of thought on this, but I have always found that it’s best to point the individual mics almost straight down into the drums – say at 70 degrees or so – this way you get the most weight and body to the sound. You can use the overheads to get the more open sound of the kit and of the sticks hitting the skins – use single mics to get separation and punch.
  5. Move the mic around the drum head If a drum sounds good in the room but disappointing in the control room, move the mic. An inch closer, an inch back, pointing more towards the centre of the skin, more to the edge – listen and find the sweet spot.
  6. What does the drummer hear ? Try putting a mic over the drummer’s shoulder – after all this is where he makes his playing decisions from. Along similar lines to point 3, try heavily compressing this signal and feeding just a little into the mix – it can add great energy and feel.
  7. Try micing the front of the kick Many kick drums have a hole in the front (as you look at the kit). You can try sitting the mic there, or use it to get the mic right inside in front of the beater – or, you can ignore the hole and just mic up the drum skin from the front, as you would any other. Often this gives a great, natural, punchy sound. Listen, and choose what sounds best.
  8. Forget about the hi-hat This one is very personal to me, but to this day I’ve never willingly used a hi-hat mic in a mix. I always prefer to rely on the overheads. There is often so much spill on the snare mic anyway that you’re always trying to get rid of hi-hat, not add more ! But, maybe it’s just me : )
  9. Tune the kit I probably should have started with this point, but perhaps it’s a little less interesting than the others. However it’s just as important, if not more so. Tuning the kit is a whole blog post in itself  and it’s not something I can claim to be an expert on. But briefly – the tuning of each drum is critical to it’s sound. If the skins are too slack or too tight, the drum won’t sound or ring as it should – and if the tension is uneven, you’ll get very unpredictable results. Tricks like adding tape or other damping materials to the skins are also useful. (Edit – If you’re interested in learning more, check out this post : The secret of a great drum sound)
  10. Tune the recording space, too. It should go without saying that you need a room where the drums sound good to record them in – but don’t forget that you can have some influence over this. If you’re in a rehearsal studio where everything is carpeted, even the walls and sounds dead as a result – get some sheets of plywood in to add reflective surfaces. If you’re in a big concrete garage where everything is too bright and lively, add carpets, packing blankets and duvets – or even better, make yourself some gobos – more on this in a future post, too.
  11. Get the world’s greatest drummer. Or even Lars Ulrich. Oops, sorry, I said ten steps, didn’t I ?
  12. Check the phase OK well the whole “10 steps” thing is blown now so I might as well add this excellent suggestion from Danny in the comments. When blending multiple mics, it’s essential to make sure they are in phase with each other. I think I’ll do a whole post on phase, but the short version is:
    (1) Add the new channel
    (2) Toggle phase reverse on the channel
    (3) Pick whichever sounds fuller and stronger.
    (If it sounds “hollow”, it’s wrong)
    (4) If neither sounds good, move the mic or patch in a delay
    (5) Repeat, but listening in mono !

There are other, more outlandish ideas for getting great drum sounds, but I tend to save those for special occasions. Stick to the suggestions I’ve outlined here, use the best mics you can lay your hands on and Listen, Listen, Listen.

If you’d like some feedback on your drum mixes, send me a link for some comments, via the Special Introductory Offer or the Production Advice Twitter community. Or, if you have a drum sound you’re particularly proud of, post a link in the comments.

What are your favourite techniques for recording drums ?

10 Responses

  1. kevin says:

    Toughest thing for me was the kick drum. i ended up building a mic “tunnel” out of plywood. This created a mini-room for the kick drum mic to sit in.
    So i had one mic inside the kick right up near the beater (tough position because kicks move violently)
    and then another one, phase corrected pointed to the back of the box, with a blanket bridging the kick and the box. This also went a long way toward isolating the kick drum because the other kit parts led in less.

  2. Danny says:

    Great post.

    One very important thing that is missing is to make shure that everything is in phase.
    When I’m mixing material thats been recorded by another engineer, this is 70% of the time an issue.
    Often people only check phase on the on the overheads and maybe the snaredrum.
    But also remember to check all the closemics to the overheads, and in between if there is spill (bassdrum to snare etc.)

    It’s the same as with the room and tuning. If you’re out of phase you’re fighting an uphill battle

  3. Ian Shepherd says:

    Thanks guys !

    @kevin I’ve read about the “kick tunnel” but never tried it – I think people also use rolls of carpet. I’ve never had enough bleed on a kick mic to bother me much, what mic were you using ?

    @danny That’s a great point about phase – in fact, it’s so great I’ve added another step. And now I think about it, phase in general would be a great topic for a post. Thanks !

  4. Arrangement is also key – many good recordings are let down by well recorded drums which just don’t suit the song. How about ditching the fat snare which works great live for a piccolo? What about using a brush instead of a stick?

    Fans who know the music from performances respond really favourably to the song they know and love recorded quite with different instrumentation but which accurately captures the spirit of the tune.

  5. Ian Shepherd says:

    @Dean Good point. Conversely, if I had a quid for every time someone asked me to fatten up a piccolo snare in the mastering…

    PS. I’m a big fan of hot rods : )

  6. Daniel says:

    Hi Ian,
    I’ve been following your posts for a while now with great interest – please keep up the great work!

    If I might suggest a future topic, I’d really like to read something about live recordings (how to place the audience mix, how to mix it all together, etc.).

    All the best from Germany
    Daniel

  7. John says:

    For a great tutorial on drum tuning check out the Drum Tuning Bible. You can google it, it’s free and very informative.

    I like to mix the beater side of the kick, in addition to the resonant side. If you’re getting too much snare rattle, which you probably will, set up a compressor on the beater mic, keyed from the snare mic.

    Also, if the snare sounds killer in the room mics, but the cymbals are killing it, try gating or expanding the room mics, keyed off the snare.

  8. Joe Gilder says:

    Great post, Ian. With regards to phase, would you say it’s a big deal to get things in phase while recording, if you could just nudge/align things in the DAW later?

  9. Ian Shepherd says:

    @ Joe – Personally, I prefer to get everything I can right at the tracking stage.

    Let’s say your overheads are uneven distances from the snare – this may cause it to sound undefined. In theory you can fix this in the mix with a delay, but in my experience it’s much easier to get a tape measure out and move the mics. I’ve found dialing in the right delay later can be a lot trickier than it sounds.

    Or, say the phase on one of the toms is wrong – you could spend ages moving the mic trying to find a good position to fix the problem, when just flicking a switch will do the trick.

    I don’t obsess about it – if it sounds good I’m happy, but it’s a simple test so worth doing as soon as possible, imo.

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